Day 4 saw us waking to sparkly blue skies again.
After our breakfast it was back on the bus and then to Plan
les Ouates for our final visit to the Patek Philippe factory.
The morning saw us broken in to two groups again. One group
went over to the service department while the other group was taken for a talk
about the design and research and development of new watch models.
Our group first went for the design/R&D talk. Very
interesting to hear how a watch is designed from sketch to model and then to
prototyping. Sketches and 3D printed models are presented to a panel of 6 that
includes Heads of design, R&D, Watchmaking,
Mr and Mrs Stern. After deliberation and critiques, go ahead is either
given or the piece goes back for refinement or changes. Some pieces may take a
year or two of playing around with before the final design is set.
It was very interesting to see and handle the 3D models.
Several sizes are presented; a life size one, a large one, and then case and
bracelet(if not on a leather strap) separately. Prototypes are made from a base
metal after the go ahead is given and mock up movements are installed. These
are then presented and critiqued again.
Dial designs and prototypes are also presented. We were able
to see the samples of some of the enamel dials and the steps in their making.
Enamelists are true artisans and the work they do on a small scale is
astounding.
After our time learning about the design process it was time
to swap with the other group and head to the service department.
In the service department we learnt about the amount of work
and quality control that goes in to servicing Patek Philippe watches. We were
then taken to see the head of servicing for the vintage watches. A team of 3,
one master watchmaker and two junior watchmakers handle repairs and restorations
of the vintage timepieces.
On display were some of the botch jobs that they are sent
from people who just go to a bad watchmaker. One watch had a paperclip used in
the repair!
The head watchmaker is so skilled at his work that he is
able to tell when a part he is machining is not right just by the sound it
makes. He is also able to hear it across the desk on work one of the junior
watchmakers is doing.
The restoration department has a ‘library’ of information
built up by the head watchmaker. While some parts are available, quite often
the restoration department needs to manufacture their own parts based on the
components in the watch they are restoring. This requires meticulous measuring
and skilled hands and eyes. This information is then stored for future
reference in the ‘library’.
After our visit to the restoration and service department it
was time for lunch. This time we had a three course lunch in the cafeteria.
Entrée was a tasting plate or borscht, foie gras mosse on a
croute, salmon and cream cheese roulade.
Main was duck breast with plums, roesti and seasonal
vegetables.
Dessert was a delicious orange and chocolate ring.
After lunch we stretched our legs and had a look at the site
where Patek Philippe is constructing a new expansion of the factory. This new
building will see Cadrans Fluckiger move from St. Imier to Geneva, the case and
jewellery departments will also move to the main site, relocation of the
service centre and a watchmaking school.
We then jumped on the bus for the short drive to the case
and jewellery departments. We saw first hand the machining and finishing of the
cases, from a lump of precious metal or a lump of steel the case comes to shape
in a CNC machine. It takes hours for the case be finished in the CNC before it
heads off for polishing.
The polishing department was quite fascinating as well.
Depending on the type of finishing (shiny, brushed, matt) the polisher will
have a different approach and finishing method to the process. Some pieces such
as the Nautilus bracelet require both a brushed and shiny finish, this then
requires the futher step of ‘blocking’ the polished areas before applying the
brushed finish.
The jewellery department is where those pieces that require
stones to be set in the dial or case are finished. Cuff links and ladies
jewellery pieces are also produced here. We were very lucky to be able to meet
the gemologist for Patek Philippe. He travels the world looking for some of the
most amazing stones. For example a row of around 20 flawless Zambian emeralds,
a suite of 6 perfect ‘pigeons blood’ rubies and flawless diamonds. The stones
don’t always get used straight away, it may take several years before a design
comes along to utilize them. We were able to see one of the stone setters
working on a pave diamond bracelet for a watch.
After
our tour of the case and jewellery departments it was back to the main factory
for the final part of our afternoon and tour. An hour of inspecting the current
novelties and standard production finished watches.
Trays of watches were passed down each side of the table, with plenty of
time for looking, handling and asking questions. There were lots of exciting
pieces to contemplate.
Of course being a watch fanatic so I had around 8
favourite pieces.
After that it was back downstairs for our final farewell to
our guides and rush back to the hotel for our final dinner of the trip.
Our venue for dinner was Auberge d’Onex, located in the
suburb of Onex on the southern side of Geneva. Nestled amongst a lush garden,
Auberge d’Onex is housed in the building
that was originally the clubhouse of the first golf club in Geneva. Cuisine is
Italian and the owner/maître d’ is a very vivacious host. Prosecco was served on arrival in the front garden.
Auberge d’Onex is a homely and cosy restaurant, dark wood
exposed beams on the ceiling, floral curtains, white clothed tables with
comfortable wooden chairs.
Red wine was the drink of the night, a lovely 3 year old
Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico.
Baskets of bread were dotted around the table with some
fantastic olive oil to dip it in. Antipasti was served from platters and
included, grilled asparagus, grilled witlof, burrata cheese, artichokes,
sausage, salamis, whitebait, grilled eggplant. My favourite had to be the
burrata cheese, so creamy and soft. Servings were quite generous.
Main
was a large whole fish that the staff bought out on a trolley and served to us
with some caponata.
Before dessert bowls of peaches, plums, grapes, fresh dates,
kiwi berries and small mangoes, were placed on the table.
There was a choice of 6 desserts served from the dessert trolley. We were also
offered grappa and house made Limoncello with dessert. I had the Tiramisu for my dessert, tasted fantastic even if it looks a bit messy on the plate.
After a fabulous dinner it was back to the hotel for our
final sleep in Geneva.
