De Bethune Debate – Are six figure watches necessary?

As a watch collector with somewhat of a rose colored perspective in relation to anything horological,  being invited to a watch event ‘Are Six Figure watches necessary?’ proved to be possibly confronting.

Ironically the event was held at the State Library of NSW, another potentially archaic institution.

Maybe I’m quixotic but the idea of reading an actual book within a library such as this, is enriching on so many levels that you just cannot compare it with an e-book.

What was of greater interest was that the watch company hosting the event together with the Hourglass was no other than De Bethune. If there is one current brand that has a strong independence aura it is definitely De Bethune.

This is even apparent on the watches which speak for themselves by having no brand signature or logo.

The brand has its own unique design DNA not only from an aesthetic but more importantly in terms of movement architecture and a passion for genuine innovation.

De Bethune almost operates in a different universe to the rest of the industry. It has taken just eleven short years for two watchmaking devotees to build what history will doubtless view as the foundations of 21st century horology.  In 2002, when David Zanetta, a collector with a passion for art, history and timepieces, decided to join forces in founding De Bethune with Denis Flageollet, the son, grandson and great-grandson of watchmakers, they were both keenly aware of sharing the same vision of tomorrow's watchmaking. Their no compromise approach is finally receiving well deserved accolades amongst the industry and collectors.

In a tech driven, globalised world, the rational mind would certainly paint traditional watchmaking as on a path of eventual obsolescence. Luckily the human race is not entirely rational and there will always be a lure to own objects of irrational desire that spark inexpressible feelings deep inside of us.

Are these watches necessary? No! Are they an investment? No, as we will find out in due course! These questions are not just about watches but all things of human passion. To the crazy collector these creative works that symbolize beauty, romance, and exclusivity are not a desire but a necessity.  

Reflections on Rebellious causes

Being invited to a rebellious cause will stir emotion in most of us, as we all have dreams of lashing out our creative energy into our passions. I suspect that the reason why most of us fail in this endeavor is our inherent need to often seek the approval of others. 

En masse globalisation is standardising value systems and the mega brands increasingly seem to have the same look and feel despite their best efforts to instill the ‘disruptive mantra’.  Maybe it’s a symptom of the fact that corporate marketing departments like to play it safe by developing watches the current trends suggest rather than taking a risk creating a potential object of desire.

Now and then there are glimmers of hope, like this year’s Patek Philippe Pilot Watch controversy which got the world talking, but more on that later.

It was with particular joy to find out that I was invited to join in the celebrations of three rising independent watch brands, namely, De Bethune, MB&F and Urwerk.

I have to say that watch events in Singapore are of a different league in terms of standard and level of sophistication not just from the organiser but also the end collectors.

The knowledge base is astounding, as is the uncompromising critique when a new piece is launched. The HM6 Space Pirate is one watch that manages to spark in instant reaction from people, the initial reaction is confronting which is then followed by fascination and a deep respect of the craftsmanship and design complexity.

Ironically even Max thought that I would never buy a HM given that my watch collection is very classic. Intriguingly I’m drawn more to the Horological Machines now despite my earlier and most would think more rational preference for the Legacy Machine particularly given Kari Voutilainen’s input into the movement.

The HM2 is my personal favourite machine I just had to have one.

A true mechanical sculpture unique, technically complex and with strong elegant lines. I suspect that even H.G Wells and Leonardo Da Vinci would approve.

A good friend of mine remarked on the fact that, “for a watch to have true inherent value to the collector, it must be an object of the highest quality, rare and relevant”. The last point is of particular interest as the vintage pieces that achieve auction records are all historically ‘relevant’ icons.

A large number of these now considered ‘ classics’ were not that popular when first produced as they were often ahead of their time. This makes it even more exciting to be part of these pioneer’s journey and watch them create the horological icons of the future.